:)), A very common type of feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. It's a popular duo. A helper ingredient that helps to make the products stay nice longer, aka preservative. NEOCUTIS MICRO•BODY Rejuvenating Cream. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. Visibly reduces signs of skin puffiness with caffeine. I tried Lumiere tightening eye cream a few months ago. Micro Day Riche | Revitalizing and Tightening Day Cream ... Every month we offer exclusive savings on Neocutis products to … A super common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. What contains more of it, is the sebum (the oily stuff) that our skin produces. A helper ingredient that helps to make the products stay nice longer, aka preservative. MICRO∙EYES is multi-tasking eye cream powered by MPC™ is formulated with hydrating Hyaluronic Acid and caffeine to help improve the signs of skin aging in the delicate eye area. A form of skincare superstar, vitamin C. Even though we are massive vitamin C fans, Ascorbyl Palmitate (AP) is our least favorite. BTW, lye is not something new. NEOCUTIS MICRO-EYES Rejuvenating Cream is an anti-aging cream to help energize skin and reduce puffiness. It's a cheap, effective and well-tolerated ingredient to make sure the cosmetic formula does not go wrong too soon. MULTI-TASKING CREAM TARGETS THE DELICATE EYE AREA TO HELP HYDRATE AND REDUCE THE APPEARANCE OF SKIN AGING, PUFFINESS AND UNDER EYE DARKNESS. Hello, our favorite molecule that helps us wake up in the morning and then keeps us going through the day. Shop now for Neocutis Eye Creams, Neocutis Lumiere, Neocutis Bio Serum & More. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of skincare big shot Vitamin C. If you do not know, why Vitamin C is such a big deal in skincare, click here and read all about it. As a super well-known stimulant from coffee, tea and plenty of other soft drinks, Caffeine needs no introduction. It can reduce fine lines and dark circles for a more youthful appearance. Neocutis Micro Eyes by Lumiere | Best Eye Cream | LovelySkin Every month we offer exclusive savings on Neocutis products to our Insiders. It also helps to keep products stay nice longer by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (they usually come from water). It is Ecocert and Cosmos approved, and is popular in natural products. Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid helps plump up the appearance of skin. Last, but not least, we have to write about caffeine and hair growth. Pure Vitamin C. A skincare superstar that is clinically proven to boost collagen production (in 5-20% concentration), fade hyperpigmentation and boost UV protection under sunscreen. Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>, here is a bit longer and nicer explanation, Read all the geeky details about Tocopherol here >>, take a look at more promising derivatives here, Read all the geeky details about Ascorbic Acid here >>, A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin, A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years, Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier, Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot), High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin, Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin, Significant photoprotection against UVB rays, Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great photoprotection, Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive, Works best between a concentration of 5-20%, Boosts the skin’s own collagen production, If used under sunscreen it boosts its UV protection, Extremely unstable and oxidizes very easily in presence of light or air, Stable in solutions with water only if pH is less than 3.5 or in waterless formulations, Vit E + C work in synergy and provide superb photoprotection, Ferulic acid doubles the photoprotection effect of Vit C+E and helps to stabilize Vit C, Potent Vit. So we will skip right to the part where we talk about what the hell it does in so-so many cosmetic products. Fave eye cream! It was only an in-vitro study meaning that it was done on cell cultures and not on real people, but still, this also does not support the use of AP too much. vanilla, perfumes) into water-based formulas. Swiss formula with growth factors that stimulate fibroblasts and increase collagen, Tightens under the eyes, reduces puffiness, dark circles and wrinkles, Lumiere Firm Riche | Illuminating and Tightening Eye Cream, Micro Day Riche | Revitalizing and Tightening Day Cream. If product is swallowed, get medical help or contact a Poison Control Center right away. A white to beige powder that is described as the golden standard emulsifier for emulsions (oil+water mixtures) that are difficult to stabilize. Free shipping & samples. Refreshes the delicate eye area with bisabolol, a component of chamomile extract, so eyes appear younger and smoother with regular use. Read more about parabens here >>. A well-known thing about Caffeine is that it improves the microcirculation of the blood vessels. Formerly MICRO-EYES Rejuvenating Cream, Micro-Eyes is a multi-dimensional cream for visible eye skincare concerns. Once in the skin, it has nice antioxidant properties, meaning that it reduces the formation of evil free radicals and it might even be useful in preventing UV-induced skin cancers. Third, ATIP seems to have all three magic abilities of pure vitamin C: it gives antioxidant protection from both UVB and UVA rays, it increases collagen synthesis (even more than AA) and it has a skin brightening effect by reducing melanogenesis by more than 80% in human melanoma cell cultures. Size: 0.5 oz / 15 ml Rejuvenating Cream. A very common type of feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. This seems like a skincare solution which might be able to enhance the area under your eyes in a rather beneficial manner without exposing it to any side effects. NeoCutis LUMIERE Bio-Restorative Eye Cream Review – Final Verdict. Apart from the general controversy around parabens (we wrote about it more here), there is a 2006 in-vitro (made in the lab not on real people) research about methylparaben (MP) sho. An error has occurred. You must go and read our geeky details about it.). If contact with eyes occurs, rinse eyes thoroughly with water. Might be helpful for dark circles, puffy eyes, as well as cellulite and hair loss. Sodium hydroxide in itself is a potent skin irritant, but once it's reacted (as it is usually in skin care products, like exfoliants) it is totally harmless. Thanks. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). With a potent blend of ingredients like alpha hydroxy acids and antioxidants, this eye cream diminishes fine lines and crow's feet. (We also checked Prospector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight). It is also often used to create liposomes, small spheres surrounded by phospholipid bi-layer designed to carry some active ingredient and help its absorption. C serums might cause a slight tingling on sensitive skin. Also available in an intensive moisturizing Riche formulation Probably that’s why citric acid is usually not used as an exfoliant but more as a helper ingredient in small amounts to adjust the pH of a formulation. A stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, that might have (in-vitro results) all the magic abilities of pure vitamin C (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener). One of the active parts of Chamomile that is used in skincare as a nice anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient. It is there in lots of products in tiny amounts (honestly, we do not really understand why), however, we do not know about any vitamin C serum featuring AP in high amounts. BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. It’s not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. It still often shows up in the ingredient list of soaps and other cleansers. Rejuvenating Cream Multi-tasking eye cream powered by MPCTM is formulated with hydrating Hyaluronic Acid and caffeine to help improve the signs of skin aging in the delicate eye area. Regarding the skin-brightening properties of pure vitamin C, this is another magic property AP does not have, or at least there is no data, not even in-vitro, about it. Comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. A superabsorbent polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) that has crazy water binding abilities. It's a clear oily fluid that is used in skincare as a nice anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient. A 100% natural and plant-derived moisturizer that mimics the natural carbohydrate fraction found in the upper layer of the skin. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! Tightening eye cream reduces the appearance of dark circles under the eye, Form of Vitamin C, Ascorbyl Isotetrapalmitate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, ATIP;Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. For example, in case of AHA or BHA exfoliants, the right pH is super-duper important, and pH adjusters like sodium hydroxide are needed. A type of lipid that's the major component of all cell membranes. Though conventional wisdom and anecdotal evidence says that this property is helpful for dark under-eye circles and puffy eyes, we have to mention that the double-blind research we have found about a 3% caffeine gel concluded that "the overall efficacy of the selected caffeine gel in reducing puffy eyes was not significantly different from that of its gel base." JOURNEE Bio-restorative Day Cream Broad-spectrum Sunscreen SPF 30. Can be derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. But you know, the proof is in the pudding. But here again, the evidence that it actually makes a measurable, let alone visible, improvement on actual human beings is limited (we could find only some animal skin studies or caffeine being combined with other actives). It’s the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF, hyaluronic acid (HA). Looking at the research, we were surprised to find how versatile Caffeine is. It's also often used to create liposomes. Typically used at 1% or less in most formulations. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. Second, a study that examined the skin absorption of vitamin C found that ascorbyl palmitate did not increase the skin levels of AA. In addition, vitamin C's three magic properties (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener) are all properly proven in-vivo (on real people), but for the derivatives, it's mostly in-vitro studies or in the case of ATIP, it's in-vitro and done by an ingredient supplier. The Eye Cream That Revitalizes The Eye Area Lumiere smooths the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles around the eye area. It's a cheap, effective and well-tolerated ingredient to make sure the cosmetic formula does not go wrong too soon. It’s often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. Lumiere Firm Riche | Illuminating and Tightening Eye Cream $ 84.95. Discontinue use if signs of irritation or rash appear. The only good thing we can write about Ascorbyl Palmitate is that there is an in-vitro (made in the lab, not on real people) study showing that it might be able to boost collagen production. Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) The most common skincare ingredient of all. It's a cheap, effective and well-tolerated ingredient to make sure the cosmetic formula does not go wrong too soon. We have found some recent and promising research to back this up. It’s pretty much the current IT-preservative. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. This scientifically advanced formulation is powered by Micro-Protein Complex (MPC™), hydrating hyaluronic acid, caffeine to help deflate the appearance of puffiness and refreshing bisabolol to improve the look of aged skin around the eyes. Bottom line: a really promising, but not well-proven vitamin C derivative that can be worth a try especially if you like experimenting (but if you like the tried and true, pure vitamin C will be your best bet). The BIO•ESSENTIALS skincare collection is the core daily regimen. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three months and 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. I normally have very dark under eyes, and this has helped a ton! Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. Daily use of MICRO∙EYES helps provide the following benefits: Minimizes the signs of aging specifically around the unique eye area such as crows feet, hollowness and crepiness. Citric acid comes from citrus fruits and is an AHA. Treat complex signs of aging with Neocutis Micro Serum Intensive Anti-Aging and Tightening Treatment. is the hero of the Neocutis line. Pretty much the current IT-preservative. About 13% of human sebum is squalene, which means that it’s an important skin-identical ingredient and NMF (natural moisturizing factor). Best eye cream. So now, you know that Vitamin C is great and all, but it's really unstable and gives cosmetics companies many headaches. Sometimes its referred to as "waterlock" and can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). Avoid contact with eyes. With this context in mind let's see what ATIP might be able to do. Second, because it's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be great. Overall, Ascorbyl Palmitate is our least favorite vitamin C derivative. A natural moisturizer that can bind to the skin stronger and longer than other similar ingredients so it can keep the skin hydrated longer than usual. Overall, we think that caffeine is a very versatile and biologically active ingredient. NeoCutis Micro Eyes By Lumiere - Tightening Cream. … Dr. Julie Woodward demonstrates the best way to apply eye-cream. Not really that good. It is Ecocert and Cosmos approved, and is popular in natural products. Tightening eye cream reduces the appearance of dark circles under the eye Uploaded by: shannylee1982 on 01/13/2021. Micro Night Riche | Extra Moisturizing Overnight ... Bio Cream $ 124.95. A smallish polymer molecule that is used as a solubilizer and viscosity control agent in cosmetic products. Good old water, aka H2O. … Also, it's extremely unstable and hard to formulate. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. It is a small, water-loving molecule with pretty good skin penetration abilties. It usually has to be neutralized with a base (such as sodium hydroxide) for the thickening to occur and it creates viscous, clear gels that also feel nice and non-tacky on the skin. is drying. Squalene is an oily liquid that originally comes from shark liver but luckily it can also be found in a couple of plant oils. A type of lipid that's the major (about 75%) component of all cell membranes. A little helper ingredient that is used to adjust the pH of the product. Thanks to its water-binding ability, it also prevents the drying out of formulas, especially when combined with the fellow hygroscopic agent, sorbitol. To solve this problem they came up with vitamin C derivatives, and one of them is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (let's call it ATIP in short). HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. Helps alleviate the look of fatigue and under eye darkness. Rejuvenating Cream Multi-tasking eye cream powered by MPCTM is formulated with hydrating Hyaluronic Acid and caffeine to help improve the signs of skin aging in the delicate eye area. EYES® Rejuvenating Cream from NeoCutis is designed with a deeply nourishing formula that wakes up fatigued eyes and reduces the appearance of past damage. So citric acid is an exfoliant, that can - just like other AHAs - gently lift off the dead skin cells of your skin and make it more smooth and fresh. It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only have to be absorbed into the skin but also have to be converted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. Squalene is an oily liquid that originally comes from shark liver but luckily it can also be found in a couple of plant oils. But according to a comparative study done in 1995, citric acid has less skin improving magic properties than glycolic or lactic acid. Olive (0.6%), peanut (0.1%) and pumpkin (0.35%) oils contain it, though not in huge amounts. That is probably no coincidence. Read about squalane here >>. (Btw, if you do not know what the big deal with vitamin C is then you are missing out. First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist. Chemically speaking, it is an unsaturated (has double bonds) hydrocarbon (contains only carbon and hydrogen) molecule, that can undergo oxidation. The blend of these two (caprylyl glycol + phenoxyethanol) is called Optiphen, which not only helps to keep your cosmetics free from nasty things for a long time but also gives a good feel to the finished product. The most common type of feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason parabens. Another thing Caffeine is used for in body care products is its anti-cellulite effects. With a potent blend of ingredients like alpha hydroxy acids and antioxidants, this eye cream diminishes fine lines and crow's feet. A very common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. Can you guess what? After identifying the causes of key skin concerns, NEOCUTIS then sources specific ingredients to create unique formulas for optimal results. Before developing any products, Neocutis first aims to have a deep understanding of how skin works and the root causes behind concerns such as aging, pigmentation, redness, dehydration and textural skin changes. Neocutis Bio Cream Overnight Smoothing Cream ($160 for 1.69 fl. It’s safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. All skin types: Non-comedogenic • Dermatologist tested • Free of color additives and fragrances • Not tested on animals. At the same time, it also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives, such as the nowadays super commonly used phenoxyethanol. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. It is costly but I feel it’s worth it. For external use only. So, AP is one of the attempts by the cosmetics industry to solve the stability issues with vitamin C while preserving its benefits, but it seems to fall short on several things. We could find Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate mentioned only in one published in-vivo study that examined the anti-aging properties of a silicone formula containing 10% AA and 7% ATIP. “I love Aftercare. It was already used by ancient Egyptians to help oil and fat magically turn into something else. Neocutis. On the pro side, this means that squalene can act as an antioxidant (while its no-double-bond version sister, squalane cannot) that might be useful for dry skin types, but on the con side, oxidized squalene (called squalene peroxide) is thought to be a strong acne-trigger, that makes squalene less ideal for acne-prone skin. Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. MPC, Micro Protein Complex, the latest exclusive anti-aging technology created by Swiss scientists. A 2017 study compared a 0.2% caffeine liquid with a 5% Minoxidil (an FDA approved active to treat baldness) solution and found that "a caffeine-based topical liquid should be considered as not inferior to minoxidil 5% solution in men with androgenetic alopecia", or English translation means that the caffeine liquid was pretty much as good as the FDA-approved Minoxidil stuff. A very common type of feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason parabens. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. A mild, natural preservative that usually comes to the formula together with its other mild preservative friends, such as Benzoic Acid and/or Dehydroacetic Acid. We are massive vitamin C fans and have written about it in excruciating detail. A smallish polymer molecule (created from repeated units of Polyethylene glycol, aka PEG) that's used as a solubilizer and viscosity control agent. It's a cheap, effective and well-tolerated ingredient to make sure the cosmetic formula does not go wrong too soon. Removes puffiness, crows feet, and softens skin while also tightening and firming. A so-called fatty (the good, non-drying kind of) alcohol that does all kinds of things in a skincare product: it makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). Lye - A solid white stuff that’s very alkaline and used in small amount to adjust the pH of the product. Pure Vitamin E. Great antioxidant that gives significant photoprotection against UVB rays. They harness the power of two ingredients that help maintain skin's healthy, youthful appearance: Processed Skin Proteins, which are rich in growth factors, antioxidants, collagen and other essential nutrients, along with peptide-rich Micro Protein Complex. A handy white powder that magically converts a liquid into a nice gel formula. Not bad! According to its manufacturer, Tetrapeptide-21 shows superior collagen, hyaluronic acid and fibronectin (all nice and important skin elements) boosting activity, and can smooth and minimize all kinds of wrinkles. No wonder, it is a very popular and common ingredient. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. It works mainly against fungi and has only milder effect against bacteria. Ultra-hydrating cream formulated specifically for the delicate eye area to help restore a more youthful, vibrant appearance around the eyes. It is typically used in tiny amounts, around 0.1% or less. Neocutis. A restorative, line-smoothing eye cream that uses growth factors to target the delicate eye area and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, crow’s feet, puffiness and under-eye darkness. A restorative, line-smoothing eye cream that uses growth factors to target the delicate eye area and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, crow’s feet, puffiness and under-eye darkness. I have tried other eye creams but hadn't seen the results that I had with this one. :( What, why?! It’s safe and gentle, but even more importantly, it’s not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. A great study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology compared a bunch of vitamin C derivatives and this derivative was the only one where the study said in terms of stability that it's "similar to AA". It has a water-loving head with two water-hating tails and this structure gives the molecule emulsifying properties. Its special magic power is to bind to the skin stronger and longer than other moisturizer ingredients do so it can keep the skin hydrated longer than usual. As for skincare, it works as an emollient and skin-identical ingredient. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products. It’s a nice ingredient that just feels good on the skin, is super well tolerated by every skin type and easy to formulate with. Btw, it's also used as a food preservative. An often used glycol that works as a solvent, humectant, penetration enhancer and also gives a good slip to the products. We are highly skeptical what effect a tiny amount of AP has in a formula. The theory is that it can inhibit the activity of the 5-α-reductase enzyme that plays an important role in hair loss and allows a renewed growth phase of the hair. A big polymer (a molecule from repeated subunits) with crazy water binding abilities. It has nice antioxidant properties and can improve the microcirculation. I ran out for a little bit and before my new one could get here you could see the effect that it had on my under eyes. This does not mean that ascorbyl palmitate cannot penetrate the skin (because it can, it's oil soluble and the skin likes to absorb oil soluble things) but this means that it's questionable if ascorbyl palmitate can be converted into pure Vit C in the skin. I have an entire guide devoted to what products are safe to use while pregnant including information on what ingredients to avoid while pregnant and a huge list of pregnancy safe skincare products.The list has gotten so large that I’ve decided to start listing brands in their own individual posts. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. I review Neocutis Bio restorative anti ageing cream for the face and under the eyes. The most common type of feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason parabens. Take care of your skin with Neocutis products. LUMIERE RICHE Bio-restorative Eye Balm. So this all sounds really great, but these are only in-vitro results at this point. Neocutis skin-care products are designed to fight the visible signs of aging. As for its use in cosmetic products, it is a handy multi-tasker that thickens up water-based formulas and also has some emulsifying and emulsion stabilizing properties. Please try again later! In theory, it can speed up the lipolysis process (the "fat burning" by our cells) and stimulate the draining lymph system that might lead to the improvement of cellulite. Discover the AFTERCARE difference for both ablative (eg, Fraxel®, HALO™, CO 2) and nonablative (eg, microneedling, peels, skin tightening) dermatology treatments. The well-known stimulant from coffee. Other than having a good safety profile and being quite gentle to the skin it has some other advantages too. ... LUMIERE Bio-restorative Eye Cream. If you are into vitamin C, you can take a look at more promising derivatives here. Firstly, it's stability is only similar to that of pure ascorbic acid (AA), which means it is not really stable. Neocutis Lumiere is formulated with 30% more PSP, the most complete protein blend of Growth Factors, Cytokines and Interleukins available to smooth and soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. Support skin’s natural collagen stimulation for a more supple complexion with this powerful treatment. I recently ordered for the second time. We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. There is also in-vitro data showing that it converts to AA in the skin. A mild, natural preservative that usually comes to the formula together with its other mild preservative friends, such as Benzoic Acid and/or Dehydroacetic Acid. The study was a small (10 patients), double-blind experiment, and the formula did show some measurable anti-aging results. I used to have patients place Neocutis Bio Cream then petrolatum on their treated skin after resurfacing. EYES® Rejuvenating Cream from Neocutis is designed with a deeply nourishing formula that wakes up fatigued eyes and reduces the appearance of past damage. As for skincare, it works as an emollient and skin-identical ingredient. It's a cheap, effective and well-tolerated ingredient to make sure the cosmetic formula does not go wrong too soon. Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. I love love love this eye cream. It’s great to have an all-in-one post procedure treatment. Yes, it’s soap. So great in fact, that it surpasses the penetration of pure vitamin C threefold at the same concentration and it penetrates successfully into the deeper layers of the skin (that is usually important to do some anti-aging work).
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